PS - Elizabeth is amazing and full of excellent advice, support and helpful tips! This post is made possible only because she's such a genuinely sweet person! *hugs*
I am so glad to have a go-to pants pattern. Can't wait to have time to play with this pattern more. I see new jeans in my future!
I thought it would be helpful to show my process of how I adjusted my fit to grade out the pattern.
Here's my favorite pair of fit pants I made paired with my Emerson top.
So before I get started - I should disclose: I am not normally a pants person!
I wear dresses to work almost exclusively. Occasionally a skirt (mostly so I can wear all the cute top patterns I own). I haven't worn pants to work in years, so I'm probably not the best model.
First thing I did was make a muslin pair of shorts. Which, by the way, are my new favorite pajamas.
I knew I was going to need to adjust because I'm about 3" larger than the hip measurement and about 2" larger than the other measurements on the size 20. So I graded out about one size and added 2" to the waist band.
One "cheater" method I have to distribute the length or width I'm adding to a pattern is to not overlap the pages completely. I highlighted where I didn't overlap the center pages fully and where I graded out on the sides.
Here's the shorts that came out. I used cotton jersey that I got for like a buck a yard from Girl Charlee. It has a little more stretch than my intended fabrics, so I was able to use it for the wasist band too.
I danced around in the mirror until they settled and I looked from all angles.
Bahama Mama Vintage Swimsuit. The adjustment I do is often called "scooping out the crotch"
I transfer the adjustment back to my pattern piece (pink highlight)
So then I move onto my finals. I transferred the adjustments to my rise onto my pants length pattern piece by keeping my rise pattern but adding the pants-length pages on.
The next thing I need to do is grade out the legs (as applicable).
I wanted to try a skinny pair. I've never had skinny pants of any kind. I've also never had knee high heeled boots because even the wide calf won't fit me.
That all changes now!
My pink highlights are about an inch on each side outside of the skinny leg pattern, but following the shape.
Then I need to shorten. I cut at the knee and overlapped. I happened to use a joint in the paper so that you can see my pink highlights where the circle is smaller than it would be.
Here's the skinny pants outcome:
I used a double knit fabric for the pants with solid black DBP from EFF for the waistband
I really wanted some charcoal bootcut type slacks, so I taped the width on the legs I had cut off back on and this time I followed the regular cut line instead of skinny. I didn't need to alter the regular cut line because it's designed to be a regular leg and it fits me like a bootcut.
I used a really nice, thick, drapey charcoal ponte from the Fab Clique with black EFF DBP for the waistband. These are my favorites! (And I'm glad I have extra of this ponte because it's amazing!)
I'm not totally done. Next steps are to improve. There's always room for improvement.
Here's what I see in my photos.
I have some lines in the rise like my waistband is too big for my pants and causing pleats. That's exactly what I think is wrong. My cotton jersey muslin waist doesn't have has much stretch as the super stretchy DBP from EFF. I need to pull the waist band off and shorten it about an inch.
Before I do that though, I'll put them on inside out and I will clip the excess fabric on the thigh/hip. Looks like I have about 1/4" too much for the fitted look I'm going for.
I use these really handy clips from Amazon instead of pins because I don't want to worry about my cats stealing pins and swallowing them. Also don't have to worry about stepping on them! Anything not on the edge of the fabric that can't be clipped (rare), I use masking tape.
So then I'll pull the waistband off, put the pants on my serger and go over the clipped area (no need to seam rip!) to bring it in a little, then reattach the now shorted waist band (again, just put the existing seam on my serger and take the seam allowance I need trimmed off). Reattach the waistband without taking any fabric off and I should have a more fitted look.
Hope you found reading about my adjustments helpful and feel optimistic that you can use a pattern even if you're outside the size range!
Pattern Stats -
Maternity possible: I would leave the rise alone and increase the width of the waist band by 6" (for a 3" height difference).
Nursing possible: N/A
Link disclosure: This post main contain affiliate links. Clicking the link doesn't change the product or price you're shown, but I might get a small percentage towards materials for my next project. If you found this post helpful and are planning to purchase the pattern anyway, I'd really love for you to use my link.
Pattern link: Women's Fit Pants 00-20
Link to blog post on the Emerson Top (paired with the black skinny pants)